Istanbul Grille, for several years one of the few bright spots in Oakland's lackluster food scene, has gained a new dining room.

Owner Coskun Gokalp still runs the mostly take-out shop on North Craig Street, but he has opened a primarily sit-down version on Centre Avenue in Shadyside. The new space is only slightly more upscale than the old. But with a lot of effort (and only minimal capital), it has been made surprisingly pleasant. An unattractive dropped ceiling is hidden by gauzy silk sheets. Mirrors festooned with hand-painted designs gleam from the walls. Hanging lamps and lanterns create a feeling of warmth.

The truth is, you'll forget about the atmosphere the second the food arrives. Istanbul Grille is close in form to a kebabcis, a type of Turkish restaurant that specializes in grilled meats and also serves a wide variety of mezze, small plates shared at the beginning of a meal. Entrees here are dominated by grilled chicken and lamb in various forms, all supplied by a halal butcher.

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Istanbul Grille

2 stars = Very good
Ratings explained

5501 Centre Ave.
Shadyside
412-325-3347
www.istanbulgrille.net

• Hours: Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
• Basics: Authentic Turkish mezze and grilled meats in a relaxed atmosphere. Good for vegetarians and people looking for healthy options.
• Recommended dishes: Baba ghanoush, eggplant in tomato sauce, spicy vege, feta cheese rolls, zucchini pancakes, chicken adona, karni yarik (ground lamb and eggplant), lamb kofte, baklava, pistachio pudding, chocolate pudding, turkish coffee.
• Prices: Meze, $4.99-6.99; soups and salads, $3.99-7.99; Entrees, $6-17.99; desserts, $3.50-6.99.
• Summary: Dining room wheelchair accessible, rest rooms may be difficult to access; non-smoking [due to the Pennsylvania smoking ban, all areas of restaurants will henceforth be assumed to be non-smoking unless otherwise noted]; park on street; credit cards accepted; BYOB, corkage free.
• Noise level: Medium-loud.

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All of the entrees are served with a small side salad and some sliced red onions dusted with sumac, as well as rice pilaf that unfortunately tasted as if it had been made from instant rice. Many were large enough to split between two people, especially if a variety of appetizers started the meal.

Lamb Kofte ($11.99) is made by forming large patties from ground lamb that are then charcoal-grilled. When made well, as these were, the lamb stays moist and the grill imparts a smokiness that enhances the mild gaminess of the meat.

Chicken Adana ($11.99) is also made from ground meat, which is formed into a sort of ribbed sausage shape. Adana refers to sweet roasted red pepper ground up with the chicken.

Karni Yarik ($13.99) was by far the most impressive presentation. Jaws drop when the dish, described simply as eggplant and ground lamb, arrives containing an entire grilled eggplant stuffed with ground lamb mixed with just a little tomato sauce. The eggplant was charred on the outside yet fluffy and creamy on the inside, a miraculous feat that proves that the finest expressions of the eggplant are found in Turkish cuisine.

Vegetarian options are few, but impressive. Zucchini pancakes ($9.99) are made from grated zucchini, feta and onions, held together with just a little flour and egg. Despite zucchini's tendency to become waterlogged, these pancakes are deliciously crisp. They are even better with the scrumptious yogurt and dill sauce that likely will be offered with your entrees.

A veggie kebab ($9.99) included large slices of eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes and green pepper, all of which benefit from a hint of charcoal. The tomato was particularly delicious, warmed through and just starting to collapse, with almost caramelized edges.

In the height of the summer vegetable season, the shepherd's salad ($6.99) wowed me, though I'd be less likely to order it between October and June. At the time, however, it contained perfectly ripe tomatoes, crunchy cucumbers, biting green peppers and spicy-sweet red onions, abundantly dressed in olive oil and mixed with chopped parsley and mint. This salad was large enough to split among four, when served alongside some mezze.

And it is the array of mezze that makes this restaurant such a captivating place to eat.

My mouth waters when I think of the spicy vege ($5.50) spread on warm pita bread, a mixture of chopped tomatoes, red and green bell peppers rounded out with onions, garlic, jalapeno pepper and moistened by olive oil and vinegar. Rich, cool carrot tarator ($5.50) is the perfect complement to spicy vege's mild heat, though it's more of a yogurt dip with some shredded carrots, than a dish dominated by carrot. Or, contrast either with the velvety smooth, smoky, baba ganoush ($5.50). If you don't get the baba ganoush, you'll have to try the eggplant in tomato sauce, chunks of fried eggplant lightly stewed in a zesty sauce of lightly cooked tomatoes. And you won't want to miss the feta cheese rolls, cigar-shaped filo dough pastries filled with gooey, almost sweet feta cheese and chopped parsley.

The hardest thing you'll do all week is choosing what to resist, though you can probably skip the hummus, as a dearth of olive oil has rendered it dry and a little dull.

Even counting the hummus, I didn't try a single dish I wouldn't happily eat again, but I was a little disappointed in the number of dishes that were unavailable during my visits, including three fish dishes that aren't currently offered, and different mezze on each occasion. At the close of one dinner, we were disappointed to learn they were out of desserts, as we had been looking forward to trying the pistachio pudding.

Desserts, when they have them, are lovely. Baklava ($4) is advertised as "the best," and it is fresher and less overwhelmingly sweet than many I've tried. It's cut into four pieces, which makes for neater eating or easier sharing.

Turkey is also known for its milk-based puddings and the Istanbul Grille has several tempting varieties. The chocolate pudding ($3.50) was creamy, cold and rich, studded with walnut halves and topped with chopped pistachio.

Finally, no authentic Turkish meal would be complete without a small cup of syrupy Turkish coffee, made in the traditional manner (so remember not to drink the last sip, or you'll get a mouthful of fine coffee grounds).

The Pittsburgh dining scene could benefit greatly from more restaurants like this one: neighborhood places offering delicious, healthful food. The friendly servers and the constant attention of Gokalp ensure that even a total newcomer to Middle Eastern food would be well taken care of. Most impressive of all is Gokalp's dedication to fresh food made from scratch, a commitment to quality that pays off with every bite.